Monday, 26 October 2015

Oscar de la Renta Spring 2016 RTW

Two distinctly different looks presented at the show
I miss Oscar de la Renta.  I used to look forward to squealing over the stills from his runway collections but now, there is a void that nobody can fill.  Peter Copping, his much-praised successor, simply does not appeal to me.  Somehow, his designs for Oscar de la Renta seem to be quite convoluted or even confused.  Let’s see what he offered for Spring 2016.

The colour palette included some very strong colours like red, black and yellow.  There was also a smattering of forest green, turquoise, peach, lilac, white and powder blue.  I thought that none of the colours looked good against each other, but that’s just my opinion.  Vogue thinks that Peter Copping, like Oscar de la Renta, has a “phenomenal eye for colour and social tone”.  Ahem. 

There were a bunch of differing prints in this collection.  I thought the red carnation prints looked pretty on white dresses.  However, red carnations tend to remind me of a certain brand of evaporated milk. 

There were also a few looks featuring floral prints on satin in a grey-ish hue.  I couldn’t help but remember my grandmother’s typical clothes of metallic-hued, floral blouses and pants in dull colours (anyone living in Southeast Asia will understand this). 

Peter Copping also used a red metallic fabric shown here.  It looks like one of those imitation Thai silk fabrics stocked at Kamdar! 

Some of the garments seemed to fit poorly.  I would expect better from a house like Oscar de la Renta. 
Behold, the web of black lace that makes its way up from your chest, reaching for your throat.  Muahahaha.......
Peter Copping appeared to have discovered the genius of a lace panel, judging from how he peppered various looks with a ubiquitous piece of lace from the neck to the chest.  Even when it seemed to be out of place.  It has even popped up in Oscar de la Renta’s bridal collection!  Suffice to say, I feel like it doesn’t look like it belongs on most of the dresses. 

Strangely, the collection featured a few sheer looks.  I thought Oscar de la Renta’s customers were mostly conservative ladies.  I did like the black lace dress shown below but it resembles the old Oscar de la Renta designs too much to be exciting.
Cut and paste.  Repeat.  
I didn’t like the mixing of lace, fabrics and prints on the two looks shown below.  The resulting effect makes me confused.  There is a lack of coherence. 

Some of the looks made me wonder if I was really looking at the stills from Oscar de la Renta.  Doesn’t the dress on the left look like something Dolce & Gabbana would show?  Except for the layers of fabric around the bust?  Come to think of it, which woman would want her chest to look like that?!  I thought the dress on the right was pretty and quite Dolce & Gabbana as well!  Note the multi-layered fabric on the chest area again.  I don’t get the fingerless gloves with lace sticking out.  They might appeal to some visual kei artists, though. 

Overall, I felt that Peter Copping was trying very hard to keep a bit of the old Oscar de la Renta feel, to impress the fashion crowd by showing something new and daring, to try different things and to appeal to a younger clientele.  Of course, things never seem to work well when you try to please everyone.  Let’s hope that next season will be better.

Image credits:  Vogue

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